In 1997, my wife and I took a Thanksgiving trip to Paris, courtesy of a ACIS, a student travel group we have led trips for. It's cold, rainy, and the sun comes up late and sets early in Paris this time of year. It's also at its most beautiful. We stumbled upon what has been one of our favorite parts of Paris, returning each time we visit. Rue Mouffetard is one of the world's great market streets, stretching a half mile or more and filled with markets, restaurants, bistros, specialty shops, and bars. This particular day we came across some musicians busking for francs.